Fix your own water intake 2011 Nissan Tiida

Well, it happened in late August. At that time, I didn’t drive for about 2 weeks. When I was going to use the car, when I opened the door, there was a surge of moisture, and then I found that there was mold on the front passenger door.

Furthermore, when cleaning mold spots and rubbing the car, it was found that the carpet under the foot pads was all wet, and the front and back rows were no exception. . . .

At the beginning, I didn’t realize that the entire chassis was soaked with water, so I took a few car wash towels and put them on the floor to absorb water. After several operations, they were still very wet.

Until I plan to lift the carpet

Fortunately, although the disassembly and assembly method written in the maintenance manual is not easy to understand, in fact, the back seat is just hooked and fixed by two U-shaped hinges, which can be removed by using clever movements without any tools.

The second image points to the green arrow

After picking up the skirting accessories, which are used to fix the surrounding parts of the carpet, the carpet can be lifted without any tools.

It was discovered that the chassis was really completely submerged. . . . Also, it is unknown where the water came from (but there will be analysis at the end)

Because the carpet was pressed by the front seats, it could not be fully opened. The method at that time was to drain the water by siphoning (a silicone hose was submerged in water, sucked out with a syringe, and then pulled out of the syringe depending on water level difference and atmospheric pressure).

Then, in order to let the water concentrate towards one corner, use the truck jack to raise the opposite side.

At that time, there was no T50 six-angle wrench, so at most, the four corners of the carpet were lifted to pump water.

That’s it.

Then JD.com bought a set of hexagonal wrenches, and planned to dismantle the seat and center control the next day, remove the entire carpet and completely dry and deodorize it.

Take the wrench and remove the 4 screws of the seat track. There are 2 harnesses for the airbag on the side of the seat and the sensor plug under each seat. You need to disconnect the battery cable first. When the car is completely empty Remove it safely in case the airbag explodes due to inexplicable reasons.

The screws that fix the seat are like this

Remove some screws and remove the upper plastic trim of the center control.

Lift the 1 cm barrier slightly upwards and remove the bayonet in the middle of the barrier to remove the entire barrier.

The central control has a total of 3 wiring harnesses, which are 12V power supply, ashtray lighting, and one of the antennas of the keyless system.

The antenna wire harness is the hardest to remove, and it’s a waste of cleverness.

Remove the B-pillar trim that holds the carpet. You can just open it with your bare hands.

In this way, all were removed. . .

Then I discovered that even in this way, the carpet could not be removed completely because it was still pressed by the electronic lever switch assembly. To be honest, I really didn’t want to remove it. . . . Simply using the middle as the turning point to lift the carpet from both sides can also achieve the purpose.

The foam between the chassis and the carpet has been removed. Take the foam home and wash it thoroughly before drying and deodorizing. The chassis is completely dried.

Fortunately, the chassis of this car is very rust-proof. I don’t know how long the water has been soaked, but there is no trace of rust.

Blow the bottom of the carpet with a small fan

Alright, here are all the photos that survived.

In fact, during the process, I ruled out that the sunroof drain was blocked by the incoming water, because no water marks could be found at all, and all places that could leak were dry.

It also ruled out the problem that the condensed water of the air conditioner could not be discharged and entered the chassis, because the pipe was tightly sealed by my inspection.

In the end, my conclusion is that this water. . . It was caused by spraying water directly to the air inlet of the air conditioner when I was washing the car. . . The logic is that the brake and accelerator pedal are just below the air conditioner air outlet measured by the main driver. There are water marks and rust marks. My car wash water comes in from the air inlet, and there will be no pipes draining out of the car, but directly from the air outlet to the chassis.

Finally, the car reversed and loaded everything back, and the ignition was successful, but. . . Airbag light is always on

After turning over the manual for a long time, the final judgment was that after the airbag harness of the seat was disconnected, I turned on the car and locked the car, causing the computer to diagnose the airbag incorrectly, so I kept prompting.

Finally, the airbag lamp was removed according to the manual and the self-test module was restarted. The airbag returned to normal.

This is all over, saving thousands of dollars, my wife rewarded the money to buy 500 million versions of PS4 Pro. .

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